Abaya Fabrics in Pakistan: Nida, Crepe and Georgette Compared
By Umair Sandhu
Co-founder, Markaz ·

Three fabrics cover most abayas sold in Pakistan, and they do not do the same job. Nida is matte and soft, and falls in a straight line — the safe default. Crepe has a fine pebbled texture that hides creases, so it survives a commute and a full day in a chair. Georgette is light and moves as you walk, but it is semi-sheer and needs a lining under it.
Pick by the job the abaya has to do: daily wear in heat, a long day sitting, or an evening where movement matters. Cut and colour are easy to judge from a photo. Fabric is not, which is why it causes most returns.
Below: the three side by side, what suits a Pakistani summer, the opacity test that prevents most returns, how to read a listing, and how to order on Markaz shop categories cash on delivery, so you handle the cloth at your door before you pay.
Nida, crepe and georgette, side by side
The quick version. Each row is the property that actually changes how the abaya wears.
| Nida | Crepe | Georgette | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Surface | Flat, matte, no shine | Fine pebbled grain | Slightly crinkled, airy |
| Drape | Falls straight, holds a line | Falls straight with body | Floats, swings when you move |
| Creasing | Creases show on the flat surface | Best of the three — texture hides it | Creases drop out, but it snags |
| Opacity | Usually opaque on its own | Usually opaque on its own | Semi-sheer — needs lining |
| Weight | Medium | Medium to heavy | Light |
| Best for | Everyday wear, university, work | Travel, long sitting, office | Evening, events, layered looks |
If you only ever buy one, buy nida. If you spend your day in a car and a chair, buy crepe. Buy georgette when you want the abaya to move, and check the listing says it is lined.
And the other fabrics you will see
- Chiffon. Lighter and sheerer than georgette, and more delicate. Beautiful over a slip, poor as a daily abaya.
- Jersey or knit. Soft and stretchy, packs without creasing, follows the body closely. Good for travel if you are comfortable with a closer fit.
- Cotton and linen blends. The most breathable in dry heat and the quickest to crease. Fine for a short errand, visibly crumpled by evening.
- Satin and silk-look polyester. Shiny, formal, and it shows every mark. Event wear, not daily wear.
Nida: the default, and why
Nida is a soft polyester fabric with a matte finish — it reads as fabric rather than as plastic, which is the whole point. It takes deep black well, falls in a clean vertical line without clinging, and costs less than the equivalent weight in a natural fibre. Most ready-made abayas in Pakistan are some version of it.
You will see it sold under trade names: Korean nida, Dubai nida, nida matte, premium nida. These are grades and mill names, not different fibres. What separates them is weight and finish. A heavier nida hangs better and shows less of what is underneath; a thin one ripples and loses its line after a few washes.
Its weakness is creasing. A flat matte surface shows a fold, and a nida abaya that has been folded in a parcel will arrive with the fold line visible. That drops out with a cool iron or a steamer, but you should expect it rather than treat it as a defect.
Crepe: the one that survives the day
Crepe is made with tightly twisted yarns, which gives the cloth a fine grain you can feel with a thumb. That texture scatters light, and a scattered surface does not show creases the way a flat one does. Sit through a four-hour journey in crepe and you stand up looking much as you sat down.
It usually carries a little more weight than nida, so it holds its shape in wind and does not ride up. The trade-off is heat: a heavier cloth traps more of it, which matters in June in Karachi and not at all in January in Islamabad.
Here too the names multiply — Korean crepe, Italian crepe, bubble crepe, moss crepe. Judge by the grain and the hand feel, not the label. Fine, close grain means a dressier finish. A coarse, bubbly grain is more casual and usually lighter.
The crush test
If you can hold the cloth, do this: gather a handful tightly, count to ten, let go. Crepe springs back with faint marks that vanish in minutes. Nida keeps a soft crease for a while. Cotton and linen keep it until you iron. It takes ten seconds and it tells you more than any product description.
Georgette: light, lovely, and sheer
Georgette is a light crepe weave — crisp rather than slippery, with a faint crinkle. It moves. An abaya that swings as you walk is nearly always georgette or chiffon, and that movement is the reason to buy it.
It is semi-sheer, and that is not a flaw to be fixed later. A georgette abaya is meant to be lined, or worn over a slip or a full-length inner. If a listing shows georgette and says nothing about lining, assume it is unlined and plan for what goes underneath. Outdoors, in direct sun, unlined georgette shows far more than it does in a bedroom mirror.
It also snags. A ring, a watch clasp, a handbag zip, a rough chair — any of them can pull a thread, and a pulled thread on georgette does not disappear. Treat it as the fabric for evenings rather than for crowded transport.
Which fabric for Pakistani weather
Heat here is two problems, not one: dry heat and humidity, and they want different cloth.
- Dry summer heat (Lahore, Multan, Faisalabad in May and June). Air movement matters most. Lighter georgette, lighter nida, or a cotton blend if creasing does not bother you. A loose cut beats a thin fabric with a narrow cut.
- Humid heat (Karachi, coastal belt). Cloth that sticks is the enemy. Matte nida in a flared cut stays off the skin better than a clingy knit, whatever the weight on the label.
- Winter (Islamabad, Peshawar, Quetta). Heavier crepe comes into its own. It holds its shape over layers and does not flap in cold wind.
- Monsoon and in between. Polyester-based nida and crepe dry quickly and recover from a damp day. Cotton and linen do not.
Colour matters as much as fibre in sun. Black absorbs heat, and almost all abayas are black. A looser cut that lets air move between cloth and skin does more for comfort than any fabric swap.
The opacity test, before you keep it
More abaya returns come from sheerness than from size. Two checks, both of which take seconds:
- Hold it to a window. One layer, daylight behind it. If you can read the shape of your hand clearly through it, you need a lining or a full-length inner.
- Check the seat and the shoulders. Fabric stretches most where it is pulled. A cloth that is opaque hanging loose can thin out across the shoulders or when you sit.
Do this at the door, before you hand over the money. That is the practical advantage of cash on delivery, and it is the single habit that makes buying clothes online in Pakistan low-risk — the same logic applies across online shopping in Pakistan generally.
Abaya styles, and the fabric each one needs
Cut and cloth have to agree. A style that depends on falling cleanly will look wrong in a fabric that floats, and the reverse.
- Closed or pullover abaya. The simplest shape, worn over everything. Nida or crepe. It needs a fabric with enough body to hang straight from the shoulder.
- Front-open abaya. Worn open as a layer or closed with buttons or a belt. Crepe holds the front edges in a clean line; light georgette lets them curl.
- Butterfly abaya. Wide, wing-like sleeves cut as one with the body. This is the style that most rewards georgette — the drape is the design. In heavy crepe it reads as bulk.
- Kimono-sleeve abaya. A wide, straight sleeve, less dramatic than a butterfly. Forgiving in nida, elegant in a fine crepe.
- Flared or umbrella abaya. Fitted at the shoulder, wide at the hem. Needs a fabric that moves, so georgette or a light nida. Heavy crepe makes it stiff.
- A-line abaya. A gentle widening from the shoulder, the easiest shape to wear. Works in all three.
Sleeve finish matters more in practice than the overall silhouette. A wide butterfly sleeve is a problem over a stove, in a car door and on a motorbike. If the abaya is for daily movement, choose a cuffed or straight sleeve and spend the budget on fabric instead.
How to read an abaya listing
Photographs flatter fabric, so read the text. Five things decide whether the parcel is what you expected:
- The fabric, named. “Premium quality” is not a fabric. Nida, crepe, georgette, chiffon and jersey are. If the listing will not name it, ask before you order.
- Lining, stated. Especially for georgette and chiffon. “Lined” or “with inner” should appear in the text, not be inferred from a photo.
- Length in inches, against your height. Abayas are sold by length from the shoulder, not by a dress size. The hem should clear the floor by an inch or two with the shoes you actually wear.
- Sleeve length and cuff. Sleeves are the usual sizing complaint, not body width. Measure from the shoulder seam to the wrist on an abaya you already own.
- Colour, in daylight. Black varies — a blue-black against a brown-black is obvious when they are side by side. Where a seller shows a photograph taken in daylight, trust that one over the studio shot.
Sizing without a fitting room
Lay a well-fitting abaya flat and take three measurements: shoulder seam to hem, shoulder seam to wrist, and armpit to armpit across the chest. Write them down once and compare every listing against them. This is the same discipline that makes buying any clothing online work, and it is covered further in our guide on where to buy ladies’ fashion online in Pakistan.
Making it last
Black fading is what ends most abayas, long before anything tears.
- Wash cold, inside out, on a gentle cycle. Heat and agitation lift dye out of polyester faster than anything else.
- Keep it out of direct sun to dry. Hang it in shade. Sun on wet black cloth is the fastest way to a grey abaya.
- Do not wring crepe. Twisting distorts the grain, and the texture does not come back.
- Steam georgette, do not press it. A hot iron flattens the crinkle that makes it georgette. Cool iron, or hang it in a steamy bathroom.
- Hang, do not fold, between wears. A wide hanger keeps the shoulder line, which is the part of an abaya a crease shows on most.
Buying an abaya online in Pakistan
Fabric is the one thing a photograph cannot deliver, so the order matters: pick the fabric for the job, check the listing names it, then protect yourself on arrival.
On Markaz the abayas sit with the rest of ladies’ fashion across the shop categories, with cash on delivery across Pakistan and delivery in roughly three to five days. You pay at the door, which means the crush test, the daylight check and the window test all happen before your money moves — a different proposition from prepaying and hoping. Prices move on the deals page, which is worth a look before you commit to a full-price listing.
If you sell rather than buy, modest wear is a steady category: it repeats, it is seasonal in a predictable way, and customers reorder in a second colour. Markaz has no minimum order, so you can list one abaya, see whether your buyers want nida or crepe, and order the next one on the strength of a real sale instead of a guess. The Markaz reseller programme explains how that works, and our guide to office wear for women in Pakistan covers what else sells alongside it.
Frequently asked questions
Which abaya fabric is best for Pakistani summer?
A lighter nida in a loose cut, or a lined georgette if you want movement. Both beat a heavy crepe in June. Cut matters as much as the cloth: air moving between fabric and skin is what makes heat bearable, and a narrow abaya in a thin fabric is hotter than a wide one in a medium fabric.
Is nida or crepe better for an abaya?
Nida for everyday wear and for heat; crepe when the abaya has to look unwrinkled after hours of sitting. Crepe is a little heavier and hides creases better. Nida is softer against the skin, cooler, and the more common choice for daily wear in Pakistan.
Is georgette see-through?
Semi-sheer, yes, which is why a georgette abaya should be lined or worn over a full-length inner. One layer of unlined georgette in direct sunlight shows considerably more than it does indoors. Check the listing for the word “lined” before ordering.
What is Korean nida?
A trade name for a grade of nida, not a separate fibre. It usually means a finer, slightly heavier matte cloth with a better fall. Treat it as a quality claim to verify by hand and by weight, not as a guarantee.
How do I stop my black abaya from fading?
Wash cold and inside out, skip the hot dryer, and dry in shade rather than in sun. Sunlight on wet black polyester is the main cause of the grey, patchy look. Washing less often and airing between wears also helps more than people expect.
What length abaya should I order for my height?
Measure an abaya you already wear from the shoulder seam to the hem and order to that number, allowing an inch or two of clearance over your usual shoes. Ordering by dress size rather than by length is the most common sizing mistake in this category.
Can I return an abaya if the fabric is wrong?
On a cash-on-delivery order you can inspect the parcel before paying, which is simpler than any return process. Do the window test and the crush test at the door. If the fabric is not what the listing named, that is the moment to decide, not after the courier has left.





